The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
Does anyone have or know where I can find the schematic for a Raymarine Autohelm 1000 (not St1000)? I contacted Raymarine but have not heard from them. If anyone is selling an autopilot, I may be interested.
Hi Bruce, Thank you for providing this. Our friends at Raymarine also shared this document. Unfortunately, this is not what I need. Specifically, the unit got water in it and rusted out several pins on two of the momentary push-button switches (those used to adjust direction & standby) that are soldered onto one of the two printed circuit boards. The schematic will help me identify the switches.
Oh, I see. And thereís no markings on the momentary switches to tell you whether they are single pole, double pole, single throw, double throw or normally on or normally off. Can you desolder the switches from the circuit to destructively inspect the switches and just replace like with like?
Two of the six fell off. Based on those still attached to the PCB, they're all likely 3-pin. That's about all I've got to go on, except the two that are off the board have the number 26 and what looks like a stylized "dr" printed on the bottom of them. Neither the 26 nor the "dr" have yielded anything so far. Since the momentary actuator part of said switches seem to be functional (I'll verify with a meter), if all else fails, I may attempt to solder leads back onto the switches and reinstall. With any luck it may just work.
Itís too bad that itís so old that nobody here has one. I would suggest you ask over on Cruisers Forum, however being cruisers they probably wouldnít use an electric self steering control. So the remaining switches are all single pole - double throw, momentary contact switches? If the missing switches had only 3 contacts, then you may be onto something. The engineer laying out the PCB probably oriented all the switches consistently in the same direction.
Bruce, you are correct about the switch positioning. If you hold the board in portrait position, there are two columns of three switches. Switches in the first column share the same orientation and those in the second column are turned 180į in relation to those in the first column. Customer support at Raymarine tried to be helpful, but I knew it ran its course when they referred me to a local dealer who told me they would ship the unit off to Raymarine to be repaired, if they could repair it. It appears my options are down to attempting to solder new leads onto the old switches or scrapping the unit and buying a new one. Iím going to try the former. Iíll let you know how that goes.
1. Use what you have: If you can find some nice clean 22ga solid wire and pre-tin it, itíll solder nicely into the holes in the circuit board. For the switches, itís best to use an emery board as a sander to clean whatever contacts you can connect to. Flat areas are better than edges of metal, but an edge will also work. You want to see shiny metal and put a little rosin on it. Then solder the other end of the 22ga solid wire to it. You can use stranded wire, but itís harder to get it into the circuit board holes. Once you solder in the wires, itís good to coat them with a waterproof coating like shellac or wax to prevent subsequent corrosion. 2. Look on Mouser or Digikey for parts. The important factors are size, pin out and pin spacing, and spdt or dpdt. Older PCBs used through-holes rather than the newer surface mount types, so look for a through-hole type. If you can ohm out the existing switches, that will give you some clues about pinout and whether they are single pole or double pole.
Thanks for the reference to Mouser and Digikey. My plan is to try to reuse the existing switches. If I can successfully attach new pins to them (i.e., pass the continuity test), then I'll proceed with mounting them to the board. I was wondering about some of the attachment points since there is very little metal left on the switches, but your suggestion to use some extra rosin should help. Assuming all this works, I will definitely coat with wax or shellac. Thanks for all your help.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.